La Negly, Claude Gros, Jeffrey Davies & the Russian

La Negly, Claude Gros, Jeffrey Davies & the Russian – Love that Languedoc Episode 52

At ViniSud 2010, I got to meet up with Jeffrey Davies and Claude Gros. They sat down to taste three epic cuvées from Château de la Negly with a Russian fellow who has some really interesting insights about how the Languedoc is received in various parts of the world. This episode is epic on so many levels. You get all sorts of different insights into winemaking, the history of a classic Languedoc estate, and an International perspective on wine. An instant classic. Thanks to Jeffrey Davies for setting it up and thanks to everybody for participating and sharing this online.

Catch part 2 of the Chateau de la Negly tasting here!

I think the sound came out alright despite the frenetic salon atmosphere of ViniSud. The stand was well-located and very busy, so I tried to get up real close to capture the words exchanged between these men over some truly delicious wine. Oh and it’s the owner who makes a guest appearance at the very beginning of the video.

I think Jeffrey Davies has a haunting sort of charm. He reminds me a lot of Orson Welles. Is anybody else getting that? He’s played a large part in building the relationship of several important estates around the world and his prestigious collection of wines is an import brand in the US that we knew of long before coming here to become winemakers.

Claude Gros is a super talented winemaker who pulls the strings at many of my favorite Languedoc estates. The more you taste Languedoc, the more likely it becomes that you’re tasting his work. The degree of his involvement varies from one estate to another. Sometimes he’s simply a consultant who gives an opinion and other times he is the primary winemaker responsible for everything from the vine to the bottle.

I don’t have a biography on the Russian and I feel bad reducing him to this title. He’s a really swell guy and put up with my camera and bothersome questions like a champ. Not to belittle the other folks in the interview, but his perspective (brutally honest at times) might be the most tangibly interesting part of this episode. The harsh truth is that aside from a few VERY educated markets like Belgium, our individual AOCs are very obscure on the global market. And obviously this guy knows his stuff, but he also has to make purchasing decisions based on his target market. And it’s going to take a lot of efforts like Love That Languedoc before that market expects much from our region other than friendly, affordable wines. EDITS: See Rob Dougan’s compelling comments in response to this! And the Russian’s name is Vladimir Volkov and he’s general manager at Vinoterra, a top Russian import company. Also, it’s worth noting there’s another guy sitting at the table who says even less than me and added to the aura of suspense through his coy reluctance to be on video.

Château de la Negly – The mini biographies are necessary since nobody brags about who they are in the episode. But the true star of the videos is the estate so I’m going to say less about it in this section. It’s in AOC La Clape. All three wines are very very good and deserve all the hype they receive. My personal favorite from the tasting was probably the l’Ancely which exemplified the qualities I expect from the terroir (simultaneous richness and freshness) in an unexpected way (100% Mourvèdre with a lot of intricacy and nuance). It just caught me off guard while being delightful and I appreciate that. Also it was from 2004 and was thus displaying a little more evolution than the other two which we were tasting. Although, that’s not to say the other two were tasting young. If somebody popped any of these out in a blind tasting, I would not complain (or spit).

Obviously, I love filming each and every episode. I’m always thankful to every single person who helps this video series along. But the outstanding idea to do this episode deserves a special thanks. So, thanks Jeffrey. Bonne idée.

The wines:
Le Pavillon 2008, Domaine de la Boede, AOC Coteaux du Languedoc La Clape
Les Grès 2007, Domaine de la Boede, AOC Coteaux du Languedoc La Clape
La Falaise 2007, Château de la Negly, AOC Coteaux du Languedoc La Clape
l’Ancély 2004, Château de la Negly, AOC Coteaux du Languedoc La Clape
La Porte du Ciel 2006, Château de la Negly, AOC Coteaux du Languedoc La Clape
Clos des Truffiers 2006, Château de la Negly, AOC Coteaux du Languedoc La Clape

See also:
Domaine de la Boede – Neighbor of Negly. La Negly has the “droits de fermage” which means they grow the grapes and harvest them as if they were their own. It’s way more involved than just buying grapes. They actually sort of own the land. It’s as serious as a marriage between two domaines.
GSM – Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre. Three varietals that you see a lot in the southern Rhone and Languedoc. They rightfully have a very high esteem in the hearts and minds of many wine lovers.
GSMCC – These guys add Carignan and Cinsault. Because those varietals don’t get enough respect. But we don’t add any more letters because there are a TON of varietals that need more respect. And you can’t have 28 letter acronyms.

Share the Languedoc

Tags: chateau de la negly, claude gros, clos des truffiers, coteaux du languedoc, English, GSM, jeffrey davies, l'ancely, la clape, la negly, languedoc, Mourvèdre, porte du ciel, russian, vinisud, vinoterra, Vladimir Volkov, wine tasting

English | Ryan O'Connell March 6, 2010

7 Comments

By Wish, March 6, 2010 @ 7:56 am

Great episode! Lots to think on and clearly more wine to explore. thanks for this
By Rob Dougan, March 7, 2010 @ 11:45 am

Great first part. Looking forward to the second part.

I’m sure if the “brutally honest” perspective is not a little out of date (or is more applicable to Russia at this point.)

In my experience drinkers, critics, retailers, importers, bloggers, and wine writers in the UK, US, and European areas are very interesting in learning about individual appellations of the Languedoc and the Roussillon. When Cabardès is being written up in the Wall Street Journal, Pic St Loup in the New York Times, Terrasses du Larzac in the Financial Times, and Decanter, it’s hard to argue otherwise.

Jancis, the Wine Spectator, The Wine Advocate, Decanter, RVF all have tastings or write about different appellations from the region on a fairly regular basis. Google, Fitou, Minervois La Liviniere, Côtes du Roussillon Villages and you have a wealth of information from major newspapers, wine writers, bloggers, and on forums from aficionados.

Seth Godin wrote a short post about this with the question:
Why do smart people engage in negative thinking?
The answer: It feels good, feels realistic, protects us and lowers expectations. (Post here: http://sethgodin.typepad.com/seths_blog/2009/09/the-problem-with-positive-thinking.html )

In my limited experience, while the market will accept ‘friendly, affordable wines’ (from anywhere!) it’s not what it expects. Consumers in every area want one thing: something that exceeds expectations, something that excites, something that offers real value at its price, and something that everyone from the first person that made the first cut during winter pruning to the person that removes the cork in the end believes in fully.

In many ways things are easier then they have ever been for small independent AOC growers from the area.

Imagine for second how difficult it was for Aime Guibert to sell a Vin de Pays de l’Hérault in the late 70s and early 80s. Or how difficult it was for Napa vinters to sell wines in New York in the 60s, and 70s. Or imagine starting Montes in Chile in 1987.

Then imagine if for one second they had taken their lead from some Mr Brutally Honest of the period.

Truth is, that working in the Languedoc’s well regarded AOC’s is a walk in the park in comparison. Not easy, but easier then ever before.

Through-out history it has only been growers who believe in their appellations, and who take risks, who can find importers, customers, writers who are willing to do the same. Negly is a one of them.

Talk down to customers (with only ‘friendly, affordable wines’) and you’ll find that attitude reciprocated.

If you work as if you expect the worst, and with those who think the same, and by God you’ll get it. Work as if you expect the very best, and demand it, and you will get that too. As will customers.

To be sure, no L-R appellation can trade on it’s renown to offer customers wines that are sub-standard for the price. But who really wants that?

Great stuff. Look forward to the second part!
By Ryan O'Connell, March 7, 2010 @ 12:09 pm

Rob, I love it! On the one hand, I have to agree that our tiny AOCs are lost on the majority of the market. But I do like that you’re here to remind us that we don’t need to sell wine to every living person on the planet. And there’s a huge number of people who are thirsty for knowledge of our burgeoning Appellations (and thirsty for our wines too!)
By Ryan O'Connell, March 7, 2010 @ 12:09 pm

Glad you liked it, Wish!
By Tom Fiorina, March 30, 2010 @ 9:10 am

Two excellent videos, Ryan. Thanks for making these interesting discussions available online. I can understand why you were so excited at Vinisud about this tasting.
By Cantelaube, June 11, 2010 @ 1:58 am

Claude gros élabore des vins de plaisir pur des vins d’epicurien …. La ” façon ” dont il a depoussiérré certains Bordeaux en dit long sur son talent …. Chateau la rivière, Chateau Cambon La pelouse ….. Et créé de toutes pièces d’autres : la fleur Morange, domaine du Bouscat “la gorgonne” ….. Laisse rêveur .